The Sundarbans stretches throughout 10,000 sq. kilometres of Bangladesh and India. Its inexperienced cover shelters the Royal Bengal tiger, saltwater crocodiles and greater than 300 plant species. Almost 2.7 million people reside within the coastal districts surrounding the forest on the Bangladesh facet alone.
For generations, communities right here have turned to the forest for meals, firewood and drugs. Kabiraj have lengthy supplied care in rural areas the place formal medical companies might be tough or costly to entry.
Their treatments are made out of leaves, roots and bark, and their information has historically been handed from one technology to the subsequent. A 2011 study of medicinal vegetation in Barisal Division discovered that just about one-third of rural households within the coastal space sought assist from kabiraj or related healers.
Rising seas and repeated cyclones are pushing saltwater additional into coastal ecosystems. Between 2017 and 2021, salinity in tidal water rose from 21 to 33 elements per thousand within the pre-monsoon season, whereas soil salinity elevated by 31 %.
Mangroves are tailored to salt, however tolerance varies by species. The Sundari (Heritiera fomes) is declining. Bain (Avicennia officinalis), an necessary supply of nectar for bees, has stopped flowering in some locations. Medicinal vegetation that kabiraj depend upon are additionally turning into more durable to seek out.
For Suranjan, the proof is in what’s now not there.
Because the tide enters the forest, fiddler crabs transfer throughout the mud. He stops beside a tree and thoroughly cuts a bit of bark along with his knife.
“Between the wooden and the bark there’s a layer. If that layer just isn’t damage, the bark grows again rapidly. Whether it is broken, the bark takes longer to develop, and generally it by no means grows once more, the wound stays.”
When harvesting a vine, he by no means pulls out the entire plant. He cuts solely what he wants so it could actually develop once more.
However cautious harvesting can’t defend vegetation from adjustments within the water itself.
“Earlier than, through the tide, the forest didn’t sink fully. The upper floor stayed dry,” he says. “However now the forest goes absolutely underwater, and due to the saltwater many bushes are dying.”
He names species which have change into tough to seek out: hogla, or Typha, whose fibres are historically utilized to cuts and burns and whose roots are utilized in native treatments; and bain, whose bark and leaves are utilized in conventional drugs and whose flowers present nectar for bees.
“My father collected greater than 100 medicinal vegetation from completely different elements of the nation and planted them in our backyard,” he says. “However due to Cyclone Aila in 2009, saltwater entered and destroyed all our vegetation; all of them died.”
Professor Md Abdur Rahim, chairman of the Division of Genetics and Plant Breeding at Sher-e-Bangla Agricultural College, describes a forest whose botanical stability is shifting.
“Salt is slowly rewriting the forest. The hardy bushes could survive, however the vegetation that heal, those kabiraj depend on, are disappearing,” he says. “As salinity rises, the forest adjustments its face: salt-loving species unfold, whereas the fragile, medicinal ones fade.”
A season with out flowers
Close by, a small tea stall stuffed with picket benches stands beside the Shakbaria river. Inside, a tv sits silent through the day; villagers collect round it within the night. The morning rain has left water pooled on the street and clouds hanging low over the river.

Prospects drink robust black tea with sugar, generally with biscuits.
Suranjan’s uncle, Chapal Raptan, the honey collector, sits on one of many benches.
Requested how a lot honey he gathered this season, Chapal, having overcome his chilly, shakes his head.
“That is the time for bain flowers,” he says. “However this yr, not a single bain tree has bloomed. There is no such thing as a bain honey in any respect.”
A number of males reply without delay.
“Now we have by no means seen this in our lifetime,” one says because the others agree. “Not a single flower on the bain tree.”
For males who’ve spent their lives coming into the forest, the lacking blossom is greater than a poor honey harvest. It’s an unfamiliar change in a panorama they thought they knew.
Suranjan names different medicinal vegetation he says have gotten tough to seek out round Koyra: neem, ashwagandha and haritaki.
Then he seems down at his fingers.
“It’s turning into tough to gather medicinal vegetation. Since I don’t have all the mandatory medicines in my assortment, I can’t give sufferers what they want on time once they come.”
