Khan Younis, Gaza Strip – Historic landmarks typically stand up to centuries of risky change, however when rockets and missiles fall, even probably the most enduring stones turn out to be fragile.
For generations of households in Gaza’s southern metropolis of Khan Younis, the Grain Market was the primary cease once they went procuring.
Beneficial Tales
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Reaching it meant strolling previous the historic Barquq Fortress, a centuries-old construction relationship again to 1387 and the very basis of Khan Younis.
However for residents, the citadel was greater than an previous monument; it was a well-recognized landmark marking the doorway to one of many metropolis’s liveliest industrial areas.
The fragrant scent of spices and dried herbs would accompany any stroll in the direction of the Grain Market.
However that was earlier than Israel’s genocidal conflict on Gaza started. Israeli assaults inflicted heavy harm on the Grain Market and the Barquq Fortress. The market has now been decreased to shattered alleys, with mud and heavy silence filling the air.
Sitting in his retailer alongside a row of broken previous retailers, 60-year-old Nahed Barbakh, one of many metropolis’s oldest and most well-known merchants of staple meals provides, spent a long time watching prospects stream by way of the market. Now, solely a handful move by his store.
“I’ve been on this spot for many years, day in and day trip, watching individuals deliver life to this place,” Nahed mentioned. “Take a look at it now – it’s empty. Lately, there shouldn’t even be house to stroll due to the crowds getting ready for Eid.”
He paused earlier than gesturing in the direction of the close by citadel.
“We all the time felt the burden of historical past right here as a result of we’re so near Barquq Fortress. Now that historical past and life itself have been struck by the occupation.”
However Israeli hearth didn’t keep in mind the market’s historic standing. The Grain Market, lengthy thought of the financial coronary heart of Khan Younis, was additionally among the many first websites of destruction in the course of the second month of Israel’s genocidal war on Gaza. Greater than two years of Israeli bombardment and repeated waves of displacement have left the market unrecognisable.
“The occupation killed lots of our buddies who labored right here,” Nahed mentioned quietly. “Those that survived have been financially damaged. That’s why you see most of those retailers are nonetheless closed.”
He pointed to some cabinets behind him.
“My store was totally stocked with items at its excessive capability. We even had additional warehouses to provide what individuals wanted, particularly in the course of the busiest seasons.”
Earlier than he may end his sentence, a deafening blast interrupted him — the sound of an Israeli tank hearth.
“And that is the largest motive persons are afraid to return,” Nahed mentioned abruptly. “The yellow line is only some hundred metres away from this avenue. At any second, bullets can attain right here.”
The yellow line is the identify given to the demarcation line behind which Israeli forces withdrew as a part of the primary section of October’s ceasefire settlement. It successfully divides Gaza into two, and Palestinians have repeatedly been shot for approaching it.
The yellow line has divided Khan Younis, dramatically reshaping town’s geography. Israel has repeatedly shifted the road, transferring it deeper into Gaza.
The Grain Market, as soon as firmly on the centre of city life, now sits near the yellow line.
What was town’s industrial coronary heart has successfully become its edge, the place individuals hesitate to stroll, leaving the revival of day by day commerce life a distant prospect.
Centuries of endurance
The Grain Market traces its origins to the late 14th century, when the Mamluk ruler Younis al-Nawruzi established Khan Younis in 1387 as a strategic cease alongside the commerce route linking Egypt and the Levant.
Constructed as an extension of the Barquq Fortress, which functioned as a caravanserai for travelling retailers, the market turned a central industrial hub the place merchants and travellers exchanged items, transferring between Africa, the Levant and past.
The Grain Market occupies roughly 2,400sq metres (25,830sq ft). Its single-floor retailers line a central avenue working east to west, intersected by slender alleys branching in the direction of smaller courtyards. The buildings protect parts of their authentic building, together with sandstone partitions and conventional binding supplies which have survived centuries of repairs and modifications.
Over time, the market advanced into the first industrial centre of Khan Younis, adapting to trendy commerce whereas retaining its historic character.
However in the present day, lots of its retailers stand broken or shuttered.
In keeping with Gaza’s Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, the market is now amongst greater than 200 heritage sites broken in assaults by Israeli forces throughout the Gaza Strip since October 2023.
On the southern finish of the Grain Market, the place rows of vegetable stalls as soon as overflowed with contemporary produce, just one makeshift stand has opened.
Om Saed al-Farra, an area, stepped cautiously in the direction of the stall, inspecting the small piles of greens laid out on a wood crate. The expression on her face mirrored greater than shock; it was disbelief at what the market had turn out to be.
“The market is deplorable now,” she mentioned. “There was many stalls right here and plenty of selections for individuals.”
She gestured in the direction of the empty stretch of the market’s vegetable part, as soon as considered one of its busiest corners.
“Lately had been as soon as stuffed with in depth joyful preparations for Eid, when households crowded the market to buy meals and necessities,” al-Farra mentioned. “Now the market feels unusually gloomy, its stalls largely empty and its acquainted vibrance gone. All the things is restricted. Even when you’ve got cash, there are hardly any locations left right here for us to purchase from.”
Financial collapse underneath hearth
Though elements of the market’s infrastructure stay bodily standing, many merchants haven’t returned.
In keeping with Khan Younis Mayor Alaa el-Din al-Batta, the Grain Market was as soon as one of many metropolis’s most important financial lifelines.
“Simply because it as soon as related continents, even underneath blockade, it continued to attach individuals throughout Gaza,” al-Batta mentioned. “It holds a deep place within the reminiscence of our residents. However as soon as once more, the occupation has introduced destruction, concentrating on each our historical past and a essential lifeline for the individuals.”
For practically 20 years, Israel has managed Gaza’s land crossings, airspace and shoreline underneath a strict blockade. Because the genocide started in October 2023, restrictions have tightened additional, pushing companies and commerce to break down.
In a slender western alley the place scattered stones cowl the bottom, two cloaks hung outdoors a small store. Inside, 57-year-old tailor Mohammad Abdul Ghafour leaned over his stitching machine, rigorously stitching a torn shirt.
His store was the one one open within the gray alley.
“I’ve been right here since childhood,” Abdul Ghafour mentioned. “My father opened this store in 1956, and I grew up studying the career proper right here available in the market.”
Israel’s bombardment not solely destroyed the place the place he labored; it additionally killed dozens of his members of the family.
“On December 7, 2023, Israel dedicated a horrific bloodbath towards my household,” he mentioned. “I misplaced my father, my brothers, and greater than 30 family members.”
Burying his members of the family was solely the start of the lengthy, painful separation from the market and his store.
“We had been compelled into displacement greater than 12 instances. I had many probabilities to depart as two of my youngsters reside in Europe,” Abdul Ghafour mentioned. “However all I may take into consideration was returning to my store.”
When Israeli forces withdrew to the yellow line, he got here again alone.
“I cleaned the road on my own. And if I needed to do it once more, I’d. Whoever loves his land by no means abandons it,” he mentioned. “I cost my batteries for my machine and are available each day. My return inspired some residents to return again too. However individuals nonetheless want shelter, water, and fundamental companies earlier than extra households return.”
Resident Mohammad Shahwan stood in Nahed’s store checking an inventory of things he hoped to purchase.
“We left the crowded al-Mawasi as quickly as we may to return to our broken dwelling,” he mentioned, referring to the stretch of coastal Khan Younis that 1000’s of Palestinians have been forcibly displaced to. “However the variety of residents right here remains to be very small due to the destruction and lack of companies.”
Nonetheless, Mohammad Shahwan mentioned he was relieved to seek out the store open in any respect.
“For the primary time in two years, we’ll make conventional Eid biscuits,” he mentioned, holding the listing of elements. “The final two Eids had been darkish for my household after we misplaced my 17-year-old son, Salama. He and his aunt had been killed by an Israeli strike.”
He may have purchased the now-expensive provides elsewhere, he mentioned, however returning to the Grain Market carried its personal which means. “I wished to purchase them from right here, similar to we all the time did.”
Ready for restoration
In keeping with Mayor al-Batta, restoring the historic market would require a significant reconstruction effort.
“The Grain Market wants a complete restoration course of to perform once more,” he mentioned. “To this point, our work has solely been restricted to clearing rubble and delivering restricted water provides for returning residents.”
The rebuilding course of would require specialised supplies and skilled restoration work to protect what’s left of the historic construction. Municipal employees have already collected leftover stones from the ruins within the hope that they’ll sooner or later be utilized in rebuilding elements of the market.
However reconstruction stays unimaginable underneath present situations.
“Greater than 5 months have handed for the reason that ceasefire started, but not a single bag of cement has entered Gaza,” al-Batta mentioned.
“We wish to restore our historic id and revive life for our individuals. However neither can occur whereas Israeli restrictions and violations proceed.”
