Guelb er-Richat, Adrar Area, Mauritania – From inside her thatch-roof tent, Fatima Cheikh Mohammad Bouya scans the huge, rocky panorama exterior, hoping to catch sight of approaching company, ideally travellers seeking to keep the evening.
The 49-year-old is custodian of considered one of Africa’s most putting pure landmarks, the Richat Construction, also called the “Eye of Africa.”
Beneficial Tales
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A colossal round formation measuring about 40km (25 miles) in diameter, the Richat lies within the rugged terrain of Mauritania’s Adrar Plateau, on the western fringe of the Sahara. It might probably solely be absolutely seen from the sky, the place its domed rings resemble an unlimited eye, giving rise to its nickname. Some legends declare it marks the location of the misplaced metropolis of Atlantis, including to its enchantment amongst adventurers.
It’s these travellers, typically arriving in teams and carrying overseas forex, that Bouya hopes to draw as we speak. She may promote them a small stone formed just like the Richat itself, or host them in a single day below the desert sky, renting out tents and serving dinner.
“This entire space is my household’s land,” Bouya mentioned proudly in her sing-song Hassaniya Arabic, sitting on a pale crimson rug inside her desert camp and gesturing to a map unfold earlier than her.
She is considered one of lots of of locals now benefitting from Mauritania’s sluggish revival as a little-known journey vacation spot.
Stretching throughout an unlimited territory that’s about 90 % desert, Mauritania sits on the crossroads of North and West Africa. Its panorama blends the Sahara with the Atlantic coast, whereas its cultures mirror influences from each areas.
About 30,000 vacationers used to flock right here yearly, however a grim episode within the nation’s historical past stopped that move.
The federal government is now stepping up advertising and marketing campaigns, with some early indicators of success.
“Mauritania is having a little bit of a second within the journey world,” mentioned Sean Connolly, a journey knowledgeable who named it his 2026 vacation spot of the yr for The Occasions of London, chatting with Al Jazeera.
Connolly additionally wrote the primary English guidebook on Mauritania. The principle pull for guests, he mentioned, is its security.
“Mauritania is left on the prime of an more and more quick record of locations the place you possibly can freely and safely discover the Sahara,” Connolly mentioned.
Insecurity takes its toll
Mauritanian tourism skilled a golden age within the early to mid-2000s.
Throughout these years, guests arrived in giant numbers in the course of the cooler months between November and February, notably from France. Many got here for the Dakar Rally, the off-road motor race that when ran from Paris by means of harsh desert terrain to Dakar.
However from the mid-2000s, armed teams, together with Algeria-based al-Qaeda within the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM) and the Salafist Group for Preaching and Fight (GSPC), started focusing on areas throughout the nation, together with the capital, Nouakchott.
On Christmas Eve in 2007, AQIM fighters killed 4 French vacationers close to the western city of Aleg, in an assault that shocked the worldwide neighborhood. The victims, members of the identical household, had been shot whereas picnicking by the roadside.
The suspects had been later arrested and sentenced to dying in 2010. By then, nonetheless, Mauritania had already suffered a sequence of assaults, together with an tried assault on the French embassy.
Vacationer arrivals fell sharply. The Dakar Rally was completely relocated to the Center East, and constitution flights that when introduced French vacationers on to the Adrar area had been suspended.
In response, the federal government strengthened its safety equipment. Elite army models had been deployed to frame areas, a lot of which had been designated army zones. On the identical time, authorities engaged non secular leaders to evangelise towards extremism, together with in prisons holding suspected militants. Quranic colleges had been positioned below nearer scrutiny, whereas pathways into formal training had been expanded.
Extra lately, the main focus has shifted in the direction of lowering rural poverty. Officers have expanded a social register of weak households eligible for month-to-month stipends, whereas water, electrical energy, healthcare, colleges and cell networks have progressively reached extra distant areas.
There have been no reported assaults since 2011.
Whereas there are occasional claims of casual understandings between authorities and armed teams, these haven’t been confirmed, mentioned Mauritanian researcher Baba Adou of the College of Florida. The collapse of safety in neighbouring Mali since 2012, he famous, was beneficial to Al Qaeda and ISIL (ISIS)-affiliated teams, and sure contributed to them leaving Mauritania.
However “border areas close to Mali additionally stay vulnerable to spillover,” Adou warned, because the state of affairs in that nation spirals additional.
Officers have targeted on collaborating in worldwide tourism occasions, and welcoming overseas tour brokers to the nation.
Vacationer arrivals in Mauritania rose by 166 % between 2018 and 2019 after visa charges had been slashed from 120 to 40 euros ($139 to $46), bringing in roughly 4,000 guests that season, in line with authorities figures.
Some 7,000 guests have visited this yr alone, mentioned Alioune Cheikh, who operates his personal journey company.
Numbers stay modest in contrast with the previous, however in a rustic the place roughly a 3rd of the inhabitants lives in poverty, tourism has develop into an more and more vital supply of earnings.
A shaky new begin
Travelling by means of the open desert between points of interest, it’s tough to think about that this panorama as soon as carried actual hazard.
For miles, solely shifting dunes stretch throughout the horizon. Often, a camel caravan passes slowly by, or a herd of lean, long-necked goats strikes throughout the sand.
On social media, it’s the Iron Ore Prepare that has develop into a viral image of Mauritania’s uncooked enchantment. The 640km (400-mile) route runs day by day between the inland mining city of Zouerat and the Atlantic port of Nouadhibou. Adventurers typically trip its open freight vehicles, clinging to cargo wagons as they cross the desert.
However past the practice, different websites are drawing guests, notably within the mountainous Adrar area, a panorama of canyons and oases.
On the ruins of the traditional metropolis of Ouadane, vacationers wander by means of stone doorways, reacting with quiet awe to the remnants of previous civilisations.
“I didn’t have any expectations, really; I wished to go to Senegal, but it surely’s been a beautiful shock,” mentioned Martha Capa, a customer from Belgium, chatting with Al Jazeera about her time in Mauritania.
However the 30-year-old additionally famous some gaps in infrastructure. There have been no guards on the website, nor a ticket workplace. A information had merely appeared to steer her group by means of the ruins.
“Mauritania is gorgeous. It has so much to supply, however possibly it might be good if there’s a bit of bit extra care; possibly a number of the websites shall be a bit of bit extra protected,” she mentioned.
One other customer, Mattheo Zuchelli, 44, who helps run his household’s journey company in Italy, mentioned he got here to Mauritania after listening to repeated accounts from different travellers. However he added that a lot of his shoppers would probably want smoother desert roads and higher-end lodging, comparable to these present in neighbouring Morocco.
“Italians love consolation and luxurious,” he mentioned.
Journey knowledgeable Sean Connolly mentioned it’s exactly the near-pristine nature of Mauritania’s websites that makes them distinctive. Till lately, he famous, many Mauritanians lived as nomads, shaping a tradition constructed round mobility and hospitality.
“Individuals introduced their tents with them, and if a stranger handed with no tent of his personal, they’d at all times be hosted and fed,” he mentioned. “This code of desert hospitality means there have historically been nearly no luxurious lodges within the nation.”
That’s slowly starting to alter. In April, the primary worldwide resort chain, Sheraton, opened in Nouakchott.
Again on the Richat Construction, Fatima Bouya continues to attend for arriving company.
“I’ve been within the enterprise since I used to be a child, however we stopped as a result of safety points,” she mentioned, recalling how her father as soon as hosted the French explorer Theodore Monod at their camp.
With a inhabitants of simply 5.5 million, Mauritania is so sparsely populated that households like Bouya’s can successfully management huge stretches of land round websites such because the Richat.
Bouya mentioned she has since restarted the enterprise to earn a dwelling. Sitting on a pale rug, she prepares zrig, a fermented goat’s milk drink, and brews candy ataya tea over a small fuel burner.
Whereas customer numbers are slowly rising, she mentioned attracting vacationers stays tough. Prior to now, she mentioned, journey businesses coordinated visits extra reliably. Right now, that system is looser and fewer predictable.
“Vacationers are like property that we now have to struggle for now,” she mentioned. “The final time I acquired company was three nights in the past when seven Italians got here. However I’ve 100 tents saved up.”
